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Welcome To MyFreeWebTemplates.info Photoshop Tutorials Area - Art Deco Clocktower
Photoshop Art Deco Clocktower Tutorial.
Tutorial 3: Art
Deco Clocktower
In Tutorial
2 we transformed an ordinary photo into a dramatically different
piece of artwork. While there were many different manipulations
involved, the primary tools used to achieve the final effect were to
invert the image and to manipulate the color. Here we will do a
variation on that technique, and combine it with image distortion
for quite a different effect.
The original image can be seen
in Figure 1. It is a photograph of a vacant gas station building in
Ashland Oregon. I really liked the art deco feel of this building. I
also generally liked the colors and composition. But I wanted to do
something to really bring it to life and give it an illustrated or
painted, rather than a photographic, quality.
I took this
photograph with my Canon D30 digital camera using a 28-135 zoom
lens. This particular camera gives a three megapixel, high quality
noise-free image. In bright, sunny conditions like this, you can get
a high-quality image using any medium to high quality consumer
digital camera. Using a digital camera to capture the image means we
can avoid the additional step of scanning the image, as we would
have to do if we had captured the image on film. Three megapixels is
enough resolution for the types of manipulations we are going to do,
which will generally have a smoothing effect on the image. Set your
camera to save the image in the highest quality jpg or raw
mode.
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| Figure 1 |
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The first
manipulation I did was to straighten the lines using
Edit>Transform>Skew in Photoshop. (While I am using Photoshop,
most of these same image transformations are available in the other
popular image manipulation programs.) Next, I enhanced the colors
using Image>Adjust>Hue/Saturation and
Image>Adjust>Replace Color. These are steps I generally
consider first when developing my vision for the final image. Using
skew and the other Edit>Transform tools lets you fine-tune the
composition. Using Hue/Saturation and the other color manipulation
tools gives you complete control over your color palette and the
overall mood of the image. I could have skipped this color step,
though, because as you will see, my manipulations will make drastic
changes to the color, which I then correct in my last
steps.
Because I wanted a painted effect, I used the pen
tools that came with my Wacom tablet to paint in brush strokes over
the image without changing the colors. These pen tools are Photoshop
plug-ins that are automatically installed when you install your
Wacom tablet. I use pen input for this step because it feels natural
in the hand for drawing and painting. But the brush strokes I made
using the pen tools were quite sharp-edged. So I blended this
painted version of the image with the unpainted version, to soften
up the pen strokes. An alternative to using Photoshop and the Wacom
pen tools for this step would be to use ProCreate’s Painter, which
gives you many kinds of brushes and paint effects to experiment
with. For adding brush strokes without altering the color in
Painter, I would use the "water" tools in that program. You can
experiment with these different tools to discover which effects you
like best.
I wanted to de-emphasize the bottom half of the
composition, which consists of the gas station windows. So I
selected that portion of the image using the rectangular marqee
tool, and then used Edit>Transform>Scale to reduce its
size.
Next I wanted to add some soft distortions. There are a
number of Photoshop filters that can be used to distort the image,
but the one I use the most is Filter>Distort>Twirl. You can
also try Filter>Distort>Wave. These filters allow you to set
several different parameter values, and you just have to experiment
until you find the settings that work for the image you are working
on. For the wave filter, I have recorded in a notebook a number of
settings I arrived at experimentally that seem to work on a variety
of images. The wave filter is useful when you want to have a uniform
distortion, or wave, applied to the entire image. In this image, I
applied the wave filter a couple of times with different settings,
each time using Filter>Fade afterwards to blend the results with
the previous step to soften it. These blended waves are evident in
Figure 2.
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| Figure 2 |
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But
sometimes the result of using the wave filter is too regular, even
when you mix many waves of different settings. So often I just use
wave for a first overall effect and then do most of the work by
making very many local distortions using twirl. Often I don’t use
wave at all, in favor of twirl. Using twirl, you can get wavelike
distortions, but get very fine-grained control over where to put
them and how big they are. Don’t use the twirl filter on the entire
image. Instead, select a small portion of the image and apply twirl.
Then do this over and over again to different portions of the image
until you like what you have. You can get the exact distortion in
the precise part of the image you want. You can see the result of
twirl combined with all my manipulations so far in Figure 2. I made
local distortions using twirl in various parts of the
image.
So far so good. But now the sky was still pretty
uniformly untextured, even though earlier I had added some pen
strokes using the Wacom pen tools. So I used the art history brush
to add some paint brush strokes to the sky. This gave the sky an
interesting nonphotographic texture. The art history brush has
several settings and can be very unpredictable, so you just have to
experiment. Alternatively, you could use Procreate’s Painter, which
has lots of different types of brushes and paint effects, for this
kind of work. And of course, pen input allows you much greater
control and a more natural feel than using a mouse, for this kind of
brushwork.
Now I wanted to make some radical color changes.
Things to try for radical color changes are
Image>Adjust>Invert and Filters>Stylize>Solarize. First
I used the solarize filter, which you can see in Figure 3.
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| Figure 3 |
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I knew this
would turn the clockface black, and would create an overall dark and
flat image, which I didn’t want. So then I inverted the solarized
image to get back the white clock face. Inverting results in washed
out colors, so I used Image>Adjust>Levels to stretch out the
color range. You can see the result in Figure
4. |
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| Figure 4 |
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This gives
really lush, vibrant colors, but I wanted to get back some of the
original colors. So I made some transformations on the individual
colors of the copper ring on the clock of the red clocktower, and of
the blue sky. For these color corrections I used
Image>Adjust>Hue/Saturation and Image>Adjust>Replace
Color on selected portions of the image. You can see the final
result in Figure 5. |
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| Figure 5 |
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The final
image has real life to it, with colors that leap off the page and
lines that seem to move before your eyes. If you compare this to the
original image, you can see that we took a straightforward
photograph and created something completely
different! |
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